Suspended Sediment Concentrations in a Barred Nearshore Zone
Field observations of the suspended sediment concentrations in the inner nearshore zone are made with the use of a pump-sampling system to derive time-averaged profiles and with the use...
Turbulence Modelling of Suspended Sediment in the Surf Zone
A computational model is developed for the prediction of the wave period averaged turbulence structure under a breaking wave. The principal forcing function for the model is the generation...
Effects of Fluid Accelerations on Sediment Transport in Surf Zones
Two hydraulic model tests were run in a wave flume using irregular waves to obtain detailed data on the cross-shore variations of the pressure gradient on a 1:20 smooth, impermeable slope....
Mean Currents and Sediment Transport at DELILAH
Bailard's sediment transport model (1981) is used as a framework to test the hypothesis that mean currents can dominate nearshore sediment transport. The data acquired during...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Conglomeratic Shoreface Deposits from the Cretaceous Cardium Formation, Alberta, Canada
Conglomeratic shoreface deposits of the Upper Cretaceous Cardium Formation are well exposed at an outcrop in northwestern Alberta. The conglomerates there compose over 80% of the total...
Gravel Spit Stabilized by Unusual(?) High-Energy Wave Climate in Bay Side, Tierra Del Fuego
A 17 km-long sand and gravel spit grew from the Atlantic coast of Tierra del Fuego in the late Holocene, semi-enclosing a large and deep embayment. Strong westerly winds generate high-energy...
Optimization of Maintenance for Coastal Inlets with Uncertainty
Maintenance dredging costs the nation roughly $400 million per year. Yet, relative to other areas of water resources engineering, little attempt has been made to apply operations research...
Net Late Holocene Emergence Despite Earthquake-Induced Submergence, South-Central Chile
Intertidal deposits show net late Holocene emergence along the Pacific coast near Maullin and Carelmapu, Chile (latitude 41.6?-41.7?S). The maximum amount of net emergence is about 1 m...
Historical Coastal Morphodynamics at St. Marys Entrance and Vicinity, Florida, U.S.A.
St. Marys Entrance is an Atlantic Ocean tidal inlel located on the Florida-Georgia state border. At the end of the nineteenth century rubble-mound jetties were constructed. Large-scale...
Sorting Characteristics of Tidal Inlets
An hypothesis is presented as follows: Littoral processes at a tidal inlet remove a disproportionately higher quantity of fine grain sediment than coarse grain sediment from the littoral...
Regional Sediment Transport in the Coastal Boundary Layer of the Central Alaskan Beaufort Sea
The characteristics of regional sediment transport in the Central Alaskan Beaufort Sea Coastal Ocean are defined by sources, marine sediment dynamics, and areas of net sedimentation. These...
Regional Beach Sand Volumes of the Pacific Northwest, USA
Eight small littoral cells ranging from 5-60 km in length have been surveyed by beach profiling and seismic refraction to establish active beach sand volumes in the Pacific Northwest region....
Large-Scale Coastal Evolution of Louisiana's Barrier Islands
The prediction of large-scale coastal change is an extremely important, but distant goal. Here we describe some of our initial efforts in this direction, using historical bathymetric information...
Processes of Shoreline Change Along the Nile Delta Coast of Egypt
A comprehensive program has been underway for more than a decade to collect nearshore data related to erosion problems experienced along the shoreline of the Nile Delta. The data include...
Sea-Cliff Erosion Along the Oregon Coast
Sea-cliff erosion is a problem along the coast of Oregon in that many communities have been built on terraces affected by bluff retreat. There is considerable coast-wide variability in...
Return to search